Fiordland is New Zealand at its wildest: enormous lakes, temperate rainforest, waterfalls, mountains and deep fiords carved into the southwest corner of the South Island. This is less a place for hopping between towns and more a place to choose one or two big adventures — hike part of a Great Walk, kayak beneath sheer cliffs, take a boat deep into the wilderness, or see the whole improbable landscape from the air. And don’t be discouraged by a little rain — in Fiordland, it mostly means more waterfalls.
Te Anau (about 2½ hrs): The gateway to Fiordland and the best base for exploring it. Set on the shore of enormous Lake Te Anau, the town is small, relaxed and ringed by mountains. Walk or cycle the lakefront, visit the bird sanctuary to see takahē, take a boat to the glowworm caves, or walk a section of the Kepler Track. There are also lake cruises, kayaking and scenic flights, and enough restaurants and accommodation to make this the easiest place to settle in for a couple of nights.
Milford Sound / Piopiotahi (2–3 hrs from Te Anau): The drive is nearly as spectacular as Milford itself, passing through huge glacial valleys, beech forest, mirror lakes and the Homer Tunnel before dropping sharply toward the sea. Once there, take a cruise or kayak beneath Mitre Peak and towering waterfalls. It is only 120 km, but allow around three hours each way if you want to stop and enjoy it — or take a coach from Te Anau and let someone else concentrate on the Milford Road.
Manapouri & Doubtful Sound / Patea (20 mins from Te Anau): Manapouri is a tiny, peaceful settlement on one of New Zealand’s most beautiful lakes and the jumping-off point for Doubtful Sound. Reaching the fiord is an adventure in itself: a boat across Lake Manapouri, a coach over remote Wilmot Pass, then another boat into the sound. It takes a full day, but rewards the effort with a far quieter, more remote experience than Milford. If you have the time, an overnight cruise is an extraordinary way to see it.
Further afield: Fiordland has some of the best hiking in New Zealand. The Milford, Kepler and Routeburn Tracks are multi-day adventures, but you don’t need to commit to the whole thing — Key Summit, sections of the Kepler Track and Lake Marian all make excellent day walks. Scenic flights from Te Anau or Manapouri are another spectacular option if your preferred method of wilderness exploration involves considerably less walking.
Good to know: Fiordland is famously wet and the weather can change extremely quickly. Bring a waterproof layer, sunscreen and insect repellent — the sandflies are enthusiastic. There is no cellphone coverage along the Milford Road, distances take longer than they look on a map, and cruises and accommodation can book up well ahead in summer. If you’re driving to Milford, fill up in Te Anau, leave plenty of time and enjoy the journey rather than rushing it.
